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We estimated that we were about two days north of Cairo when we saw signs of a major forest fire. The eastern side of the Mississippi River along here had been covered with trees, many of them over a century old. Now they were gone! The ground was wiped clean of live plants of any sort. All that we could see were burned stumps of trees and piles of wood still smoldering in places. We moved permanently to the west bank of the river because of the soot and heat still wafting from the burned area. Even small towns along here were reduced to ash, and we saw no signs of life of any sort.We were close to Cairo when we ran into a spell of very good luck: we came to a marina that was well stocked and ignored by the apocalypse except for some smashed boats tied up to the dock. Somehow, the tsunami had swept by with only a very minimum of damage, possibly because there was a natural barricade of a little peninsula blocking easy access to the marina's pond.We happened to see the advertising sign. The holy cities of Kerbala and Najaf, both in Iraq, are some of the most important sites for us, after the holy city of Makkah (or Mecca) of course. According to tradition, the first Imam, Ali ibn Abi Talib, was buried at Najaf, while his son Husayn was martyred and buried at Kerbala. As such, both are major pilgrimages for us Shi’a Muslims. Moreover, many of us (myself included) even pray on turbah, or tablets made of clay from Kerbala, following in the tradition of the Prophet (PBUH). Perhaps now that you know this, you will understand why I would spend my winter in Iraq. In fact, it was actually my first time in the country. I had been overseas before, even visited family in Iran, but visiting a country that is still in the middle of a war was… an interesting experience. The process of getting into the country in the first place was long and convoluted. I just wound up joining a caravan of pilgrims heading west from Shiraz, in southern Iran. As might be expected, the bus ride was.
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